Dry separated wood - repair?

[BVC]

I just recently received a nice game-used bat, but the barrel is very dry and has some wood separation. I know how to repair it, but my question is whether or not I should. For the sake of preserving the bat for years to come, does it make sense to glue down the separated wood, or to add something to the wood to make it less dry? Thanks.

[danesei@yahoo.com]

I was given the impression that you need specific tools for deadwood repair, since the glue needs to penetrate fairly deep into each separated seam. If you have those tools at your disposal, you might be asking the wrong group. I'd consider asking a local furniture repair shop/club for their opinions.

If, however, you feel that you confidently do have the proper tools and experience to repair the bat both ways, I would say the better solution would be to simply glue down the pieces. I'm not sure that moisturizing the wood would correct the issue, unless you're planning to moisturize the wood to make it more pliable, then repairing it with glue.

In any case, this is one of those things where you're likely best served seeking the opinion of a local expert in wood furniture restoration (or baseball bat restoration, if someone local to you does that). They would be able to tell you if this is a DIY job or if you simply don't have the right tools for it. You could also consult some of the bat experts for repair quotes.

[seanbaseball]

ask Jeff Scott at birdbats.com as he has done several museum quality repairs for me on bats

[BVC]

Thanks for your responses.

Sorry, I realize now that my question came across incorrectly. I do know how to repair the bat. My question is whether you guys, as game-used collectors, think that the repair should be done, or whether I should instead leave it as-is.

I was thinking that the dried wood will only get drier over time, so perhaps I should repair it, gluing and also possibly doing something to inhibit further drying out.

[danesei@yahoo.com]

Thanks for your responses.

Sorry, I realize now that my question came across incorrectly. I do know how to repair the bat. My question is whether you guys, as game-used collectors, think that the repair should be done, or whether I should instead leave it as-is.

I was thinking that the dried wood will only get drier over time, so perhaps I should repair it, gluing and also possibly doing something to inhibit further drying out.

Today, dead-wood is viewed as a huge minus, and professional repair could help remove some of that lost value, but who knows how the hobby will view repairs five or twenty years from now? If you're a professional furniture restorer, the question might be better asked whether repairing the checking now will actually stop the deadwood. If there's a way to chemically inhibit the process that doesn't somehow hurt the wood, maybe you could opt for that route.

If dead-wood is unlikely to get worse (in a semi-controlled storage environment), then maybe you could leave it be until ready to sell. Then you could ask potential purchasers whether they'd want the bat with the dead wood or restored.

[BVC]

Thanks. The plan is for this to be a 'permanent' item in my collection, but before making any changes to an item, I always try to consider how a future owner would view it. I've only repaired dead wood once, but it was on a seriously damaged bat that was only worth $100. Also, after gluing I used wood sealer and gave it a dull refinish, so I know it was protected. I don't have that option on this bat, as it was signed and inscribed on the barrel. I'm kind of ticked that the auction house didn't mention the dead wood, but re-looking at their photos, you could see some evidence of it, although it's worse in person.

http://catalog.scpauctions.com/ItemImages/000028/28767c_lg.jpeg

[danesei@yahoo.com]

Yeah, the SCP auction shows a lot of grain separation in the 3rd photo from the top in the left column and the second photo in the right. You're right that they could have more obviously disclosed it, but auction houses generally don't accept returns, and they exist to maximize selling price for consignors. Sorry to hear you had a disappointing experience. I was surprised to see the price break $1000, but maybe I just don't value the Yankee Stadium inscription as much as others. Since this is a keeper for your collection, if you don't mind, what were you willing to pay for the bat, and where were you expecting the price to finish?

[BVC]

I didn't care that much about the Yankee Stadium inscription - I was more interested in an untracked and signed Cano bat of this style;i.e-taped handle, pine tar, either a Louisville Slugger or this style (I wanted an 'old school' look, not a black barrel). The plan was to pick up a Cano-hit ball at a Mariners game to display with it - ended up getting a double that was left in the game and he scored off of as well, so I was happy with that.

I went one bid higher than planned and then went to bed before it ended, knowing I was paying a bit much for it. My experiences with SCP have always been good and I try to give the auction houses the benefit of the doubt, which I will do in this case as well.

Thanks for all of your responses :)

[BVC]

At the start of the auction I was guessing, with the juice, around $750-800, but my modern game-used collecting experience is very limited. For the ones that I've chosen less-wisely on, I have a few that I did very well on, so this isn't that big of a deal.

[danesei@yahoo.com]

At the start of the auction I was guessing, with the juice, around $750-800, but my modern game-used collecting experience is very limited. For the ones that I've chosen less-wisely on, I have a few that I did very well on, so this isn't that big of a deal.

What did you have as your "cap" of what you were willing to pay, though, given that you expected the price to finish in the $750-$800 range?

[BVC]

What did you have as your "cap" of what you were willing to pay, though, given that you expected the price to finish in the $750-$800 range?

After placing my last bid, I went to bed. I had planned to go no higher than $850, but that was without noticing the grain separation. A bottle of red wine earned the consignor an extra bit of money.

Living in Seattle, I've grown to become a big Cano fan and I'm confident he will be a big part of a bright Seattle Mariners future. I am gradually picking up Seattle-related stuff for the man-cave, and I admittedly got in a hurry to fill the space reserved for a Cano bat and ball.

[stlbats]

I would personally leave the bat as is. From the picture you posted, its not that bad. I have some bats with deadwood in my collection that I've had for 10 years with no further damage.

I personally like my gamers to be cracked (as long as no pieces are missing) and the deadwood or checking is from repeated contact. Even though a grading service may subtract points for cracks or checking, I think that is rediculous. I like my gamers to show tons of use. I don't repair them unless they are broken in two pieces.

stlbats

[Roady]

I would personally leave the bat as is. From the picture you posted, its not that bad. I have some bats with deadwood in my collection that I've had for 10 years with no further damage.

I personally like my gamers to be cracked (as long as no pieces are missing) and the deadwood or checking is from repeated contact. Even though a grading service may subtract points for cracks or checking, I think that is rediculous. I like my gamers to show tons of use. I don't repair them unless they are broken in two pieces.

stlbats

Game used bat grading services are ridiculous.

[BVC]

Thanks guys. I will take your advice and leave as-is.

[soxbats]

While graders may not agree, my preference if for more use and checking or separation. This is particularly true for players like Boggs, Garciaparra and Pedroia who were/are so consistent where they hit the ball as to cause such checking and were/are known to use their bats until checking takes them out of commission. One caution, make sure there is no tape residue on the barrel as checking is also an indicator that the bat ay have been used for bp.

I am confronting the repair question myself as I have a number of bats that are cracked in half or with small pieces missing. I typically leave checking as I think it adds to the history of the bat.

Soxbats at aol dot com. Follow me on Twitter @soxbats
Looking for bats used by Ray Webster, Carmen Fanzone, George Smith, Ken Poulsen, Ray Webster, Chuck Goggin, Felix Mantilla

[BVC]

Repairing the separation should be easy. I practiced on an old store model bat, and very quickly realized that none of my clamps would go around the barrel.

So I tried zip ties, and they were perfect for the job: wrap one around the barrel over the glued area (wood glue) and tighten, then slip it back down toward the handle, tighten it one more slot and push it back up over the glued area again. Repeat until you can barely slip it up over the glued spot. Do this with as many ties as necessary to hold the wood together.

Any excess glue will wipe off easily, because it's water-based.

[Roady]

Would repairing a bat be the same as repairing a card if it is ever re-sold?

[BVC]

Would repairing a bat be the same as repairing a card if it is ever re-sold?

That's what I would be curious about as well - I don't know the rules and only have the one game-used bat, but it certainly would be disclosed if I repaired and then sold it.

[danesei@yahoo.com]

Would repairing a bat be the same as repairing a card if it is ever re-sold?

In today's market, no. It's closer to restoring a car. If a professional job (either by a bat specialist or furniture restorer), the repair can add to the value. By contrast, a sloppy job, will likely lower the value by lowering marketability and appeal.

I can't imagine anyone repairing a card... I mean, 3/4 of a baseball card is worth more than a whole card with tape on it, right?

[Roady]

In today's market, no. It's closer to restoring a car. If a professional job (either by a bat specialist or furniture restorer), the repair can add to the value. By contrast, a sloppy job, will likely lower the value by lowering marketability and appeal.

I can't imagine anyone repairing a card... I mean, 3/4 of a baseball card is worth more than a whole card with tape on it, right?

I wasn't clear and used the wrong terminology. I meant if someone trimmed a card or altered a card to make it more appealing.

[Roady]

Actually I guess one could "repair" a card.

Trimming rough corners or touching up spots on the card.