Preservation of Signed Balls

[SSB15]

Does anyone have any good ideas on how to preserve signed baseballs in manner that allows you to look at them. I have tried the little ball cubes that claim to block UV Light, etc. The ink on the balls tend to still fade while they are located in the cubes.

Some baseballs even turn yellow when they are located in a dark closet.

A read an artilce that suggested wrapping the singned balls in sarand wrap.

Has anyone tried wrapping the balls in sarand wrap? Does it work?

Any other suggestions?

Thanks

Scott

[AWA85]

I have a large collection of autographed baseballs and one of the biggest keys to preservation would just be keeping the balls out of direct sunlight and other light forms. I keep all of mine in their cubes, and try not to open them often. I like some of mine to be displayed also just have to watch what kind of light hits them.

[platinum1]

One of the reason autographs change colors is because of the type of pen you use. Go with a blue ball point pen. I love to use BIC pens. Because the autographs are dark and bold. Second always use a MLB ball not a cheap baseball. It doesnt matther what type of pen you use on a cheap ball it will almost always fade away. I have never tried this but maybe if you spray the ball cubes with UV clear spray that might also work.
http://www.pictureline.com/images/large/PI8111_sureguard_cleargloss_1.jpg

[kj33706]

I just recently bought (off ebay) a shrink wrap machine and bags to do my entire baseball collection. This method looks great when done correctly and is airtight. I first saw this done several years ago at the National in Chicago. Then I put them in the U/V ball qubes and label the front of the cubes with a labeling machine. The shrink wrapping is definately an artform and takes awhile to get the hang of it. I think the machine and 500 6x9?? bags cost me around $50. I split the cost with a collecting buddy and we share the machine whenever needed. Definately use a blue ballpoint pen because the black pens tend to fade into a yellow color. Also try to handle the baseball as little as possible. Hold it by the seams because the oil from your skin will turn the baseball yellow over time. But most importantly keep out of direct sunlight. These are all tips that I use. If I'm not mistaken, the baseballs are not a synthetic material, so any exposure to environments that would decay the leather is a negative thing.

[platinum1]

I just recently bought (off ebay) a shrink wrap machine and bags to do my entire baseball collection. This method looks great when done correctly and is airtight. I first saw this done several years ago at the National in Chicago. Then I put them in the U/V ball qubes and label the front of the cubes with a labeling machine. The shrink wrapping is definately an artform and takes awhile to get the hang of it. I think the machine and 500 6x9?? bags cost me around $50. I split the cost with a collecting buddy and we share the machine whenever needed. Definately use a blue ballpoint pen because the black pens tend to fade into a yellow color. Also try to handle the baseball as little as possible. Hold it by the seams because the oil from your skin will turn the baseball yellow over time. But most importantly keep out of direct sunlight. These are all tips that I use. If I'm not mistaken, the baseballs are not a synthetic material, so any exposure to environments that would decay the leather is a negative thing.
Can you post a link to the machine, the cheapest one I have found is for $175

[ndevlin]

If you shrink wrap a ball, wouldnt there be a chance of the ink coming off when you take the wrap off over time?

[kneerat]

Saranwrap is a nice affordable way to keep auto baseballs preserved. Also, store in a cool, dry place. Some types of ink bleed no matter what... Ball point is the best.

[skyking26]

I have done research on this topic before. Having collected baseballs for 30 years, it is disenheartening to look at baseballs I had signed in the late 80's and see yellow blotches on them. Makes you sick. I was told that in the instance the ball was handled by the player/promoter/yourself and one of the 3 had oily hands - that it would take years for this oil to show up on the ball. That is why I have many from the same time period that look as if they just took the ball outta the box!!

RK

[Tedw9]

Also keep in mind that for some time Rawlings used an inferior grade leather for the balls and that has caused discoloration on them over time. If my memory serves me correct, I believe it was especially true on balls marked "Haiti".

As far as conserving signed balls, I am starting to put together a sports room, and the first thing (ok second) I bought for the room was a heavy duty window shade. It blocks out most of the light when I am not in there. And I bought a bunch of Steiner ball displays, the glass top type. So unless I am in my room, I keep it as dark as possible. I also got some disposable rubber gloves to handle the balls as I place them in the cases. This will keep my oil from getting on the ball. We all have oil on our hands, just a fact of life. The more you do to protect your signed items from this oil, the less the chance of an unsightly fingerprint appearing.

[AWA85]

If baseball is saran wrapped, would the signature ever become a problem or stick to the wrap? Is there any negative side to this method, I would be doing it by hand if I did give it a try. What you guys think?

[kj33706]

Platinum1
I bought from randmwholesale on ebay. Check out ebay item #310054831879

I also got 500 6x11 bags with the machine. Cost $63.85 delivered. He shipped it fast and answered all my questions. It is an artform to do these right. They are easy to do as I will explain. I could usually get 2 balls done with each bag. Sometimes the bag breaks or seams rip when you heat it up. So that answers the other question. It DID NOT damage any of the signatures. I even did a painted baseball by greg packer and it didn't hurt it either. I did have to redo this one because the seam tore. I only did one of the painted balls as i am not convinced the heat won't eventually hurt the paint????

Here is the method. First handle the ball by the seams so you keep your oily hands off it. I think someone had a great idea by using the disposable gloves. Put the ball into the bottom corner of the bag with the signature in a place that a seam wont be seen. Use the shrink wrap machine to cut and seal bag in half. (thus making a second bag) Then cut and seal the corners to elimate any major dog ears. Once you have a semi loose baseball all sealed, put on an oven mit and hold the baseball in your palm. Turn on a 1200 watt+/- hair dryer and systematically heat the the wrapping until it gets air tight around the ball and all the wrinkles are gone. It will amaze you how this works. If you get a good method, there is nothing that compares to the look of a finished ball. Then put the ball back in the ball qube and display as normal.

This is a trial and error method that worked best for me. The bags are cheap enough to not get pissed if one rips.

If anyone else has any questions you can either post them here or email me directly at steve@flowersmortgagegroup.com. This IS NOT kj33706 but a good friend of his that likes to read the forum.

On a side note, I would be willing to trade my mortgage services for any game used ozzie smith items. Win win for both parties.

[ndevlin]

See, that was the point I was trying to make earlier. I would think if you were to use wrap, lets say--left it on there for 10yrs, that it would stick to the ball somehow? Or the ink would come off on the wrap when removed?

Ahhh, I dunno. Has anyone offically tried this for a long period of time before actually giving this as a positive idea for ball storage? Would it even look all that great having baseballs wrapped up for display? I'd be a little nervous doing this.

[SSB15]

Thanks for all of the suggestions.

I am just worried that the chemicals in the plastic may cause problems with the signature or the ball itself. I have no basis for my concern, other than the plastic sheet companies telling us for years to use their sheets as they are free of bad chemicals.

Anyone have knowledge about what will happen over the years if you cover the balls in plastic?

Scott

[JCC1968]

Guys

finally a subject i can talk about. You are in luck i deal in flexible materials. My father-in-laws company sells pouch machinery and flexible film. (The capri sun pouch) It is important to use the right formula when doing this. Like everything in life if you don't use the right thing it could be harmful. Two important things:

1) The film must be made of virgin material. Recycled materials tend to carry impurties that could be harmful
2) The right formula must be used for something like a baseball i would go with PET12/NY15/LLDPE40 this can protect your baseball and help with UV lighting.

Hope this helps

Jason

[SSB15]

Jason:

Thanks for your reply.

Where do you buy PET12/NY15/LLDPE40?

What is it? Sheets of plastic, etc.?

Scott

[AWA85]

Well I finally got enough time tonight as I watched the Reds win a game to pack up my baseballs and try to protect them a little better. I will be off to Grad School and would rather have them stored away to keep them crisp for as long as possible. If anyone is looking overstock.com sells 36 Steiner baseball cubes for just under $40, pretty good deal.

Now I just need to get rid of about 15 of the ultra pro wood base ball and card holders I have.

[AWA85]

Forgot the picture, it may not look like much but made a little chart so I know where each ball is without having to open up all of them. :cool:

[JCC1968]

Scott

I can get the pouches made. in a three-side -seal pouch. pull a vaccum and seal the pouch. It would be easy to do.

Jason

[eGameUsed]

Jason:

Thanks for your reply.

Where do you buy PET12/NY15/LLDPE40?

What is it? Sheets of plastic, etc.?

Scott

Scott,

These crazy initials are different grades of plastic. For storage and discoloration purposes, you do NOT want to get any post consumer or recycled materials (as mentioned above). Most of your solid ball cubes are PET (Polyethylene) derived. These usually are very clear and are the same material used to make coke countour bottles. PET molds without microscopic air entrainment making for a nice appearance, hence ballcubes that look great. PET also holds coatings well if applied correctly, making for UV protection.

Some LDPE (Low Density Polyethylene) or LLDPE (Linear Low Density Polyethylene) will discolor or yellow. LDPE and LLDPE are often used for soft applications such as bags and films. They don't break too easy. I won't get into a discussion about molecular structure and tensile strength, but many PE bags will infact discolor and leave a residue over time. If you have ever pulled something out of a ziploc and it felt dirty or slightly slimey, that is the LLDPE gasing off and degarding. This takes years, but I can't tell you the effect on leather or inks.

Sorry for the long winded answer! Having worked as a chemical engineer in the ethylene business for a few years, I had the chance to understand the effects of the stuff on different applications.

Long story short, I have over 150 HOF signed baseballs in Ultra-Pro UV coated stackable ball cubes. I have never had a ball go bad because of the cube. They are all displayed in a room kept between 69-74 degrees F year round. No direct sunlight and no museum or flourescent light. Just standard low wattage bulbs.

Hope this helps!

[JCC1968]

Chris

That was a good explaination of film materials. Are you currently into plastics? Have you ever done pouching?

Thanks
Jason